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A Guide to Fancy Colored Diamonds: Unlocking the Mystery Behind Nature’s Most Vibrant Gems

Updated: Nov 11, 2024

Diamonds are celebrated for their unparalleled brilliance and timeless elegance, but not all diamonds are created equal. Among the rarest and most captivating are fancy colored diamonds—diamonds that exhibit vibrant hues ranging from vivid yellows and blues to intense pinks and greens. These gems are a world apart from their colorless counterparts, and their unique qualities make them highly sought after by collectors, investors, and jewelry enthusiasts alike. In this guide, we'll delve into the fascinating world of fancy colored diamonds, exploring what makes them so special, how they are graded, and how to choose the perfect setting to enhance their natural beauty.


Why Are Colored Diamonds More Expensive?


The rarity and allure of colored diamonds lie in their unique formation process and the scarcity of certain colors. Unlike traditional white diamonds, which are graded on a scale from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown) (see more in the blog on the 4 C's), fancy colored diamonds are valued for the intensity and saturation of their color.


The Science Behind The Formation of Colored Diamonds


Colored diamonds are formed under specific conditions that alter the crystal lattice structure of the diamond, resulting in the absorption of certain wavelengths of light and the reflection of others. This process is influenced by trace elements or structural anomalies within the diamond:


  • Nitrogen: Causes yellow or orange hues.

  • Boron: Results in blue diamonds.

  • Radiation: Exposure to radiation can produce green diamonds.

  • Structural Defects: Pink, red, and purple diamonds are typically the result of distortions in the diamond’s crystal lattice.


These factors occur very rarely in nature, making colored diamonds exceptionally rare. This rarity drives up their value, often making them significantly more expensive than even the highest quality white diamonds.


Market Demand and Perception of Colored Diamonds


Beyond their rarity, the market demand for colored diamonds also contributes to their high price. Celebrities and high-profile auctions have highlighted the allure of colored diamonds, with some stones fetching record-breaking prices. The association of colored diamonds with luxury and exclusivity makes them a symbol of status and wealth, further increasing their desirability and market value.


The Appeal of Lab-Created Colored Diamonds


In recent years, lab-created colored diamonds have gained significant attention as an affordable and environmentally friendly alternative to natural colored diamonds. Despite their lower cost, lab-created colored diamonds can still be incredibly valuable, especially when they exhibit intense and vivid colors.



How Are Colored Diamonds Graded on the Color Scale?


Colored diamonds are graded differently than their white counterparts. While traditional diamonds are graded primarily on clarity and the absence of color, colored diamonds are graded on the presence, intensity, and distribution of color. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) uses a specific scale to evaluate and classify fancy colored diamonds:


Color Hue


The hue refers to the primary color of the diamond. In addition to the primary hue, many diamonds may exhibit secondary or modifying colors. For example, a diamond may be classified as a "yellow-green" or "brownish-pink." The hue of a diamond is the most visually apparent aspect and significantly affects its value.


Color Intensity

example of diamonds on the color intensity scale for fancy colored diamonds

Intensity refers to the strength or depth of the diamond’s color. The GIA grades color intensity on the following scale:


  • Faint: A very light tint of color, barely noticeable.

  • Very Light: A slightly stronger tint but still subtle.

  • Light: A noticeable but soft color.

  • Fancy Light: A more vivid color, but still not fully saturated.

  • Fancy: A moderate level of color saturation that is both noticeable and attractive.

  • Fancy Intense: A strong, vibrant color that is richly saturated.

  • Fancy Vivid: The highest level of color saturation, showcasing the most intense and striking hues.


The more intense and vivid the color, the rarer and more valuable the diamond typically is. Diamonds graded as "Fancy Vivid" are among the most sought-after in the market.


Color Distribution


The distribution of color across the diamond's surface is also taken into consideration. Ideally, the color should be evenly distributed, without any visible patches or areas of unevenness. Diamonds with even color distribution are generally more desirable and command higher prices.


The Importance of Certification and Grading for Fancy Colored Diamonds


When investing in a fancy colored diamond, one of the most critical steps is obtaining a certification and grading report from a reputable gemological laboratory. Certification provides an unbiased evaluation of the diamond’s quality and authenticity, offering transparency in its value. Given the uniqueness and rarity of fancy colored diamonds, certification ensures you’re purchasing a gemstone that lives up to its claims.

Two of the most trusted and well-established grading institutions are the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the International Gemological Institute (IGI). Both institutions are renowned for their rigorous grading processes and standardized criteria, making their certification reports highly valued in the diamond industry.


What Does a Certification Include?

diamond grading report for pink diamond
Example of IGI report for a Fancy Vivid Pink lab diamond

A certification report for a fancy colored diamond typically includes the following details:

  • Color Grade: As mentioned earlier, this is the most crucial aspect of the report for fancy colored diamonds. The certificate will outline the specific hue, tone, and saturation of the diamond, categorizing it within the intensity scale (e.g., Fancy Light, Fancy Vivid, etc.).

  • Cut Grade: Although color is the most important factor in fancy colored diamonds, the cut still plays a significant role in enhancing the gem's brilliance. The report will evaluate how well the diamond’s cut maximizes its color and sparkle.

  • Clarity Grade: The certification will assess the number, size, and location of inclusions or blemishes within the diamond. While clarity may not be as critical for fancy colored diamonds as it is for colorless diamonds, it’s still essential, especially in diamonds with lighter hues where inclusions are more visible.

  • Carat Weight: The carat weight of the diamond will be specified, helping to determine the overall value of the stone.

  • Fluorescence: Some diamonds exhibit fluorescence under UV light, which can affect how the color appears in certain lighting conditions. The report will detail whether the diamond has fluorescence and to what degree, providing insight into how this may impact the appearance.

  • Shape and Measurements: The physical shape (e.g., cushion, radiant, pear) and exact measurements of the diamond are listed to give you a clear understanding of its proportions.


Why Certification Matters


A certification from a trusted institution provides confidence in your purchase. Fancy colored diamonds can be a significant financial investment, and the certification assures you of the gem's authenticity and accurate grading. This documentation can protect you from potential misrepresentation, ensuring that you're not paying for a diamond with inflated or inaccurate claims about its color, clarity, or other characteristics.

Certification also simplifies the comparison process when shopping for diamonds. With the details of a certified diamond in hand, you can compare it with other stones more easily, knowing that you’re making an apples-to-apples comparison based on verified information. Moreover, if you ever decide to resell or insure your diamond, having a certificate from a reputable lab is essential for establishing its true worth.


GIA vs. IGI Certifications for fancy colored diamonds


Both the GIA and IGI provide reliable and thorough certifications for fancy colored diamonds, but there are a few distinctions to consider:

  • GIA (Gemological Institute of America) is widely regarded as the gold standard for diamond grading. Their strict standards and unbiased approach make their certificates highly valued by jewelers and buyers alike. GIA was the first to create the now-standard diamond grading system, and they are known for their high level of scrutiny, especially when it comes to fancy colored diamonds.

  • IGI (International Gemological Institute) is also a well-respected certification body, and it is recognized internationally for its accurate and consistent grading. IGI certifications are sometimes considered more accessible for consumers, as IGI operates globally and provides detailed reports. However, some believe the GIA grading to be stricter, which can sometimes lead to slight differences in how the two institutions evaluate diamonds.


Both certificates are trusted and offer a comprehensive understanding of your diamond’s quality, so selecting one depends on your personal preference and the availability of each lab’s services.



Which Colors Are Rarer?

examples of fancy vivid colored diamonds in rectangular cut
Fancy Vivid Colors in Lab Diamonds

The rarity of a colored diamond’s hue plays a significant role in its value. Both natural and lab-created diamonds can exhibit a wide range of colors, but some are rarer than others. Some colors are naturally more common, while others are exceedingly rare and therefore more valuable. Here’s a look at some of the rarest and most prized colored diamonds:


Red Diamonds


Red diamonds are the rarest of all colored diamonds. Only a handful of these diamonds have ever been discovered, and they are so scarce that many jewelers will go their entire careers without ever seeing one. The unique color of red diamonds is believed to be caused by unusual crystal lattice distortions during formation.


Pink Diamonds


Pink diamonds are also incredibly rare and highly coveted. The pink hue is thought to result from additional pressure that alters the diamond’s crystal structure during its formation. Pink diamonds are often found in the Argyle Mine in Australia, which produces the majority of the world’s supply. However, the mine’s closure has made pink diamonds even rarer and more valuable. The increasing demand for pink diamonds has led to a rise in lab-created pink diamonds, which offer similar beauty at a fraction of the price.


Blue Diamonds


Blue diamonds owe their color to the presence of boron within their structure. The most famous blue diamond is the Hope Diamond, which is renowned for its deep blue hue. Blue diamonds are extremely rare and can command astronomical prices at auction.


Green Diamonds


Green diamonds acquire their color from exposure to natural radiation deep within the Earth. The radiation alters the diamond’s structure, giving it a green tint. Green diamonds are incredibly rare, especially those with a deep, even color. Lab-created green diamonds, produced through similar processes in a controlled environment, offer a vibrant and more sustainable alternative.


Yellow Diamonds


Yellow diamonds, also known as "canary diamonds," are among the more common colored diamonds, but the intensity of their yellow hue can vary widely. The yellow color is caused by the presence of nitrogen. Fancy Vivid yellow diamonds are highly prized for their bright and cheerful color. Lab-created yellow diamonds are popular for their bright, cheerful color and are available in a range of intensities.


Orange, Purple, and Brown Diamonds


While orange, purple, and brown diamonds are less common than yellow diamonds, they are more abundant than red, pink, or blue diamonds. These colors are often the result of complex chemical and structural factors, and they can range from subtle to highly saturated tones.



Best Designs for Colored Diamonds


Choosing the right design for a colored diamond is crucial to highlight its unique beauty. The color of the diamond should be the focal point, and the design should enhance its hue, intensity, and overall appeal.


Solitaire Settings


A solitaire setting is a classic and elegant choice that allows the colored diamond to take center stage. This design is particularly effective for diamonds with intense or vivid colors, as it ensures that the diamond’s hue is unobstructed and fully visible. A simple, unadorned band allows the color to shine and makes the diamond the star of the show.


Halo Settings


A halo setting features a central colored diamond surrounded by smaller white diamonds. This design can enhance the color of the central stone by providing a contrasting backdrop. The halo can make the colored diamond appear larger and more vibrant, adding an extra layer of sparkle and brilliance. For example, a pink diamond surrounded by white diamonds creates a stunning visual effect.


Three-Stone Settings


A three-stone setting is an excellent choice for showcasing colored diamonds alongside white or other colored diamonds. The central colored diamond is flanked by two smaller stones, which can either match the color of the central stone or contrast with it. This design offers a balanced and harmonious look while allowing the colored diamond to stand out.


Vintage and Antique Settings


Vintage and antique-inspired settings are perfect for colored diamonds, especially those with a softer, more subtle hue. These designs often feature intricate detailing, such as filigree, milgrain, and engraving, which complement the unique character of the colored diamond. Yellow, brown, and champagne-colored diamonds look particularly stunning in vintage settings.


Best Metal Color for Colored Diamonds


The choice of metal for the setting can have a significant impact on how the color of the diamond is perceived. Different metals can either enhance or detract from the diamond’s natural hue, so it’s essential to choose a metal that complements the color of your diamond.


Platinum and White Gold


Platinum and white gold are popular choices for colored diamonds, especially those with cooler tones such as blue, green, and purple. The neutral, silvery tone of these metals creates a sleek and modern look that allows the color of the diamond to stand out. Platinum and white gold can also enhance the brightness of lighter-colored diamonds, making them appear more vibrant.


Yellow Gold


Yellow gold is an excellent choice for warmer-colored diamonds, such as yellow, orange, and brown. The rich, golden hue of the metal complements the warm tones of the diamond, creating a cohesive and harmonious look. Yellow gold can also add a touch of vintage charm to the design, making it ideal for antique-inspired settings.


Rose Gold


Rose gold is a versatile and romantic option that pairs beautifully with pink, red, and purple diamonds. The warm, rosy tone of the metal enhances the color of the diamond, creating a soft and feminine look. Rose gold is also a popular choice for mixed-metal designs, where different colors of metal are used to create a unique and personalized setting.


Mixed Metals


For a truly unique and contemporary look, consider using mixed metals in your setting. Combining platinum, yellow gold, and rose gold can create a stunning contrast that highlights the color of the diamond. This approach is particularly effective for multicolored diamonds or designs that feature more than one colored diamond.



Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of Fancy Colored Diamonds


Fancy colored diamonds are more than just beautiful gemstones—they are rare, valuable, and deeply fascinating. Whether you’re drawn to the intense blue of a boron-rich diamond or the delicate pink of a diamond formed under immense pressure, colored diamonds offer a world of possibilities for those seeking something truly unique.


Understanding the factors that influence the value and appearance of colored diamonds, from their rarity to their grading, can help you make an informed decision when purchasing one of these extraordinary gems. By choosing the right design and metal to complement your diamond’s color, you can create a piece of jewelry that is as distinctive as it is memorable.

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